Here I will review my walk of the Tongariro Crossing. Can you review a walk? I’m not sure you can but hey, I’ll give it a go. 

The Start of the Tongariro Crossing

I should probably start off by saying that after doing the third and final peak in the UK (Ben Nevis) back in 2020, I swore to my partner that I would never go hiking up a mountain again. Much prefering an undulating walk with pleasant scenery, preferably round a lake so I can go for a quick dip if it suits me. I swore blind that I would never do one again. 

Well… obviously I’ve done another one. And I have to say, despite aching for a full week afterwards (the calf burn is real people), I’m so glad I did this hike. 

My partner and I are BIG Lord of the Rings fans and getting so close to Mount Doom was a dream come true – especially after visiting Hobbiton a few days before. For my review on Hobbiton, click here.

Uphill

Of the 19.4 km hike (we’ll get to this measurement later), the walk uphill is for around 8 km. It’s not uphill the entire way, there are some flattish bits. Scrap that, it’s mainly uphill. The national park has these signs up that let you know although that section you just got up was really hard – you’re actually shit out of luck because that was the easy bit. It’s not that I don’t like knowing what’s coming up ahead, but knowing that what’s coming up ahead is going to be worse, is not my favourite. 

The walk up is not nearly as cool as the flat bit at the top. 

The Top

OK so you’re not actually at the top. You’re not *technically* allowed to go to the top of the volcano anymore. Mount Ngauruhoe and specifically the top of it, is a significant Maori site. Therefore as of 2017, the rangers took down the signs to show people the way and strongly suggest that you don’t go up. 

Trying to remain respectful to the local community, we did the crossing and did not go to the top (they didn’t have to tell me twice). Whilst on the flat surface we took a lot of photos and obviously reenacted some scenes from Lord of the Rings. Our videos are horrendously bad. The editing – even worse. But they are pretty funny to watch and we had so much fun making them. I think I’m glad I went up there for this alone. 

After you go past the mountain, you have to go uphill – again. Absolutely soul destroying.

The Actual Top

The views of Mount Ngauruhoe are spectacular. However, at this point of the hike, it is very exposed, and the weather can change within minutes. Even in summer, you will need a thick coat and wet weather gear to protect yourself from the elements. 

Also this should be obvious, but bring enough food and water for the day. Duh. 

Getting down

The alpine crossing is what it says it is – a crossing. You can’t go up and then back down the same way. There isn’t time (car park restrictions). You need to arrange for a company to drive you to the start and then you can pick your car up at the main car park on the other side. 

This means that you’ll get to see more of the crossing, including the Red Crater and the blue sulfur lakes. 

The scree from the volcano is incredibly difficult to navigate as you walk down. You essentially will slip down, so ensure you’re wearing proper hiking boots otherwise your ankles are going to be wrecked. 

It does take you to a nice viewing section over the blue lakes – but hold your nose because these lakes are seriously stinky. 

The longest part

OK so you’ve seen the bits you’ve come to see: Mount Doom, the Red Crater, the Blue Lakes. Now you can’t wait to get home, put your feet up and have a nice cup of tea. Oh no my friends, you’ve still got 11km to go. As you trudge down the mountain, you won’t be on nice soft ground. They have for obvious reasons put protective plastic sheets (I want to say nets but that’s probably not the right word) on the paths. The relentless downhill is painful to say the least. It seems to go on and on and on – much like this blog post if you’ve made it this far. 

By the time you do in fact get down to the bottom, you’ve completed the 19.4km and where is your car? 1 more km down the road. An absolute pisstake. 

Would I do the Tongariro Crossing again?

Absolutely not. I’ve told my partner, for real this time, I’m not doing another mountain. I get absolutely no joy from getting to the top of something or from finishing at the bottom. It is my personal hell. 

HOWEVER, if the question is, would I recommend it… YES 100% – do it. You will regret it immediately but then after time, like child-birth (I can only imagine), you’ll be so glad you did it. And if not, at least you’ll have some amazing photos and hopefully some LOTR reenactments to watch back. 

The Tongariro Crossing was part of a trip around the North Island New Zealand. To read my itinerary, click here. To read my review of the whole itinerary, click here.